The Hair Colour Wheel: A Guide to Understanding Your Hair’s True Colours

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Understanding the science behind shades and tones is key to achieving your perfect look when shading or colouring. The hair colour wheel is a fundamental tool used by professional stylists to create stunning colour transformations and address common hair concerns like brassiness or dullness. This guide dives into the mechanics of the colour wheel, its role in hair care, and how it can help you achieve your desired hair colour.

What Is the Hair Colour Wheel?

The colour wheel is a circular diagram that visually represents the relationship between primary, secondary, and tertiary colours. It’s divided into 12 segments, ranging from warm tones like red and orange to cool tones like blue and violet. Hair professionals use this wheel to balance or enhance hair colours, neutralise unwanted tones, and create harmonious blends.

The Hair Colour Wheel: A Guide to Understanding Your Hair’s True Colours - Image 1

Here’s how the colour wheel is structured:

Colour Category

Colours

Description

Primary Colours

Red, Blue, Yellow

Base colours that cannot be created by mixing other colours.

Secondary Colours

Green, Orange, Purple

Created by mixing two primary colours.

Tertiary Colours

Yellow-orange, Blue-Green, etc.

Made by mixing primary and secondary colours.

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How the Colour Wheel Works in Hair Care

The colour wheel is vital when working with hair tones because it helps identify complementary and contrasting shades. Here are the main ways it is applied:

1. Neutralising Unwanted Tones

  • Complementary colours are opposite each other on the wheel. When combined, they neutralise each other. For example:
      • Orange tones can be neutralised with blue.
      • Yellow tones can be balanced with purple (common in purple shampoos for blondes).
      • Red tones are counteracted by green.

Unwanted Tone

Neutralising Shade

Orange

Blue

Yellow

Purple

Red

Green

2. Enhancing Hair Colours

  • To create vibrant or rich tones, stylists use colours adjacent to the desired shade on the wheel. For instance:
      • Red can be deepened with violet.
      • Yellow can be brightened with gold tones.

3. Creating Custom Blends

  • By understanding how different colours interact, stylists can mix dyes to achieve specific shades, from natural highlights to bold fashion hues.
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Warm vs. Cool Tones in Hair

Hair colour is often categorised into warm and cool tones. Knowing the difference is essential for selecting flattering shades:

  • Warm Tones: Red, orange, and yellow shades that add warmth and brightness to hair. These colours work well for creating golden blondes, copper reds, or honey brunettes.
  • Cool Tones: Blue, green, and violet shades that add depth and reduce brassy or overly warm tones. Popular in ash blondes, cool brunettes, and icy silver hues.

Tone

Examples

Best For

Warm

Golden Blonde, Copper

Adding warmth and glow to fair or neutral skin tones.

Cool

Ash Blonde, Icy Silver

Neutralising brassiness or complementing cool undertones.

Common Scenarios Where the Colour Wheel Is Used

1. Correcting Brassiness

After bleaching or lightening hair, yellow or orange tones may appear. Purple shampoos are effective because purple is the opposite of yellow on the colour wheel, neutralising it. AIC offers silver shampoo and conditioner, which are perfect for eliminating unwanted yellow and orange tones.

2. Achieving the Perfect Blonde

  • To create platinum or ash blondes, blue or violet toners are used to eliminate any remaining warm tones.

3. Refreshing Red Hair

  • Reds can lose vibrancy over time. Using a red-enhancing product with violet undertones can intensify and refresh the colour.

4. Balancing Gray Coverage

  • For greys that tend to pick up yellow tones, a violet-based toner can restore a more natural silver shade.
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Tips for Using the Hair Colour Wheel

  • Consult a Professional: While understanding the colour wheel is helpful, professional stylists are trained to apply this knowledge effectively and safely.
  • Choose Products Wisely: Look for shampoos, conditioners, and toners that specify which tones they neutralise or enhance.
  • Test Before You Commit: Always do a strand test before applying new colours to your entire head of hair.

Why Understanding the Hair Colour Wheel Matters

The hair colour wheel empowers you to make informed choices about your hair. Whether you’re looking to enhance your natural shade, experiment with bold colours, or fix an unwanted tone, the wheel is your guide to achieving stunning results.

For AIC, creating products that align with the principles of the hair colour wheel ensures that consumers can confidently manage and enhance their hair’s natural beauty. By understanding this tool, stylists and clients alike can unlock the full potential of their hair’s true colours. Contact AIC for advanced hair care products today.

Let the hair colour wheel be your compass in the vibrant world of hair care!

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